So i decided to start a blog for anyone who wants to see what I'm up to in Iran because most of you probably have no clue what it's like here. Honestly, I had no clue either. Iran is incredibly complex. It will be hard to write about this country without political observations and implications, but I will try because I don't particularly want to go to prison. So, I guess my first observations are that the traffic is insane, the women are beautiful, the city is filthy, and the Alburz mountains rise up abover Tehran like a grand old king surveying his land. This city is enormous. When I saw it from the sky before I landed, I couldnt believe how sprawling it was. The traffic is literally the worst in the world and there are almost no rules or regulations and even the few there are are hardly followed.
I have to wear the hijab (scarf over my head, coat or tunic down to my knees) but it is so funny to see how this traditional and Islamic dress has evolved. Girls wear Prada sunglasses, scarves that barely cover their heads, tight trench coats that perfectly outline their breasts and butts, and enough makeup to scare RuPaul. Walking down the street, I see these girls and then next to them I see these black masses, women who glide down the street with only their eyes visible to the world. The contrast is amazing.
I feel that the word contrast pretty much embodies Iran. Contrasts exist in all realms of life here. Somehow Tehran is modern, but medieval. The people are not free, but they are just on the brink of excercising freedom. Everything here is an "almost." It is almost a cosmopolitan city; it is almost tolerable to live this way; i almost understand this way of life. But not quite.
I think the most surprising thing I have discovered so far does not lie with the discoveries of this city or its people, but something I have realized within myself: The smell of mint and rosewater awakens a comfort and patriotism that I didn't know existed inside of me. I've spent a lot of time in the car just sitting and gazing at the city and it has inadvertently awakened a feeling, a strong affinity, a sadness, an aggressive defensiveness against those who are hell bent (or supposedly heaven sent) on ruining this country - this country I barely know but feel a part of and seems to be a part of me.
More to come!
4 comments:
lovely writing, as always.
Where do you fit into the contrast of women? As I remember, you packed with you neither a close fitting trench nor all black attire.
post pictures!
How are these modern Iranian women viewed as by the old fashioned women?
Tara i am an iranian living in australia and i know exactly what you mean about the sense of fitting in and aggressive patriotism. I go to Iran about every two years and it is the most wonderful time - Though i have grwon up in the west, i have such a strong but strange feeling of connection to my homeland and leaving it saddens me greatly everytime. great blog, saw you on iranian.com looking forward to reading more..
Neda
Yes Iran does have
The most beautiful women in the world can you bring me one here to Boston, USA
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